What are the benefits of running my furnace fan?
The benefit to running the furnace all the time is better circulation of your home’s heated or cooled air. This is especially true for larger homes or multi-story homes. If you have a two or three-story home with a large staircase, Mother Nature is going to try and heat the upstairs and cool the downstairs, and obviously, we want our home to be the same temperature in every room.
Combating the stack effect & keeping your home comfortable
Because hot air is lighter than cold air, hot air will naturally rise and cold air will naturally fall. In a closed space like your home this process is called the “stack effect” — it is the same process that allows your fireplace to draw smoke out of the chimney. In fact, a large staircase can easily be compared to a chimney pulling all of the hot air in the home to the upper floor, allowing cold air to fall to the lower floor. This is why in some houses the basement is always cold and the upstairs is always warmer.
Your home’s heating and cooling system will help to balance these issues but it does not run all the time and in milder months in may only run for a few minutes every hour. This is where running the furnace fan all the time can help by constantly pulling the cold air from the lower level and warmer air from the upper level, blending the two, and then redistributing a more stable, even temperature throughout the home.
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Barbeque Safety
 John V. Olson
InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector
‘Home Inspect Pros’ De Pere, WI.
 
With barbeque season already here, homeowners should heed the following safety precautions in order to keep their families and property safe.

• Propane grills present an enormous fire hazard, as the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is aware of more than 500 fires that result annually from their misuse or malfunction. The following precautions are recommended specifically when using propane grills:
  • Store propane tanks outdoors and never near the grill or any other heat source. In addition, never store or transport them in your car’s trunk.
  • Make sure to completely turn off the gas after you have finished, or when you are changing the tank. Even a small gas leak can cause a deadly explosion. 
  • Check for damage to a tank before refilling it, and only buy propane from reputable suppliers.
  • Never use a propane barbecue grill on a terrace, balcony or roof, as this is dangerous and illegal.
  • No more than two 20-pound propane tanks are allowed on the property of a one- or two-family home.
  • To inspect for a leak, spray a soapy solution over the connections and watch for bubbles. If you see evidence of a leak, reconnect the components and try again. If bubbles persist, replace the leaking parts before using the grill.
  • Make sure connections are secure before turning on the gas, especially if the grill hasn’t been used in months. The most dangerous time to use a propane grill is at the beginning of the barbeque season.
  • Ignite a propane grill with the lid open, not closed. Propane can accumulate beneath a closed lid and explode.
  • When finished, turn off the gas first, and then the controls. This way, residual gas in the pipe will be used up.

• Charcoal grills pose a serious poisoning threat due to the venting of carbon monoxide (CO). The CPSC estimates that 20 people die annually from accidentally ingesting CO from charcoal grills.  These grills can also be a potential fire hazard. Follow these precautions when using charcoal grills:
  • Never use a charcoal grill indoors, even if the area is ventilated. CO is colorless and odorless, and you will not know you are in danger until it is too late.
  • Use only barbeque starter fluid to start the grill, and don’t add the fluid to an open flame. It is possible for the flame to follow the fluid’s path back to the container as you're holding it.
  • Let the fluid soak into the coals for a minute before igniting them to allow explosive vapors to dissipate.
  • Charcoal grills are permitted on terraces and balconies only if there is at least 10 feet of clearance from the building, and a water source immediately nearby, such as a hose (or 4 gallons of water).
  • Be careful not to spill any fluid on yourself, and stand back when igniting the grill. Keep the charcoal lighter fluid container at a safe distance from the grill.
  • When cleaning the grill, dispose of the ashes in a metal container with a tight lid, and add water. Do not remove the ashes until they have fully cooled.
  • Fill the base of the grill with charcoal to a depth of no more than 2 inches.

• Electric grills are probably safer than propane and charcoal grills, but safety precautions need to be used with them as well. Follow these tips when using electric grills:
  • Do not use lighter fluid or any other combustible materials. 
  • When using an extension cord, make sure it is rated for the amperage required by the grill. The cord should be unplugged when not in use, and out of a busy foot path to prevent tripping.
  • As always, follow the manufacturer's instructions.

Safety Recommendations for General Grill Use

• Always make sure that the grill is used in a safe place, where kids and pets won't touch or bump into it. Keep in mind that the grill will still be hot after you finish cooking, and anyone coming into contact with it could be burned.
• If you use a grill lighter, make sure you don't leave it lying around where children can reach it. They will quickly learn how to use it.
• Never leave the grill unattended, as this is generally when accidents happen.
• Keep a fire extinguisher or garden hose nearby.
• Ensure that the grill is completely cooled before moving it or placing it back in storage.
• Ensure that the grill is only used on a flat surface that cannot burn, and well away from any shed, trees or shrubs.
• Clean out the grease and other debris in the grill periodically. Be sure to look for rust or other signs of deterioration.
• Don't wear loose clothing that might catch fire while you're cooking.
• Use long-handled barbecue tools and flame-resistant oven mitts.
• Keep alcoholic beverages away from the grill; they are flammable!

In summary, homeowners should exercise caution when using any kind of grill, as they can harm life and property in numerous ways.  For more tips http://www.homeinspectpros.com
 
 

Non-Conforming Basement Bedrooms
John V. Olson
InterNACHI Certified Home Inspector
‘Home Inspect Pros’ De Pere, WI.
 
A room must conform to specific requirements in order for it to be considered a bedroom or sleeping room. The reason for this law is that the inhabitant must be able to quickly escape in case of fire or another emergency.
 
Why would a homeowner use a non-conforming room as a bedroom?  Some of the reasons include:

• to earn money from it as a rental. While they run the risk of being discovered by the city, landlords will profit by renting out rooms that are not legally bedrooms;
• to increase the value of the home. All other considerations being equal, a four-bedroom house will usually sell for more than a three-bedroom house; and
• lack of knowledge of code requirements. To the untrained eye, there is little obvious difference between a conforming bedroom and non-conforming bedroom. When an emergency happens, however, the difference will be more apparent. If you have any questions about safety requirements, ask your InterNACHI inspector during your next scheduled inspection.

Homeowners run serious risks when they use a non-conforming room as a bedroom. An embittered tenant, for instance, may bring their landlord to court, especially if the tenant was forced out when the faux bedroom was exposed. The landlord, upon being exposed, might choose to adjust the bedroom to make it code-compliant, but this can cost thousands of dollars. Landlords can also be sued if they sell the home after having advertised it as having more bedrooms than it actually has. And the owner might pay more than they should be paying in property tax if they incorrectly list a non-conforming bedroom as a bedroom. Perhaps the greatest risk posed by rooms that unlawfully serve as bedrooms stems from the reason these laws exist in the first place:  rooms lacking egress can be deadly in case of an emergency.
The following requirements are taken from the 2006 International Residential Code (IRC), and they can be used as a general guide, but bear in mind that the local municipality determines the legal definition of a bedroom. Such local regulations can vary widely among municipalities, and what qualifies as a bedroom in one city might be more properly called a den in a nearby city. In some municipalities, the room must be above grade, be equipped with an AFCI or smoke alarm to be considered a conforming bedroom, for instance. Ceiling height and natural lighting might also be factors. The issue can be extremely complex, so it’s best to learn the code requirements for your area. Nevertheless, the IRC can be useful, and it reads as follows:

• EMERGENCY ESCAPE AND RESCUE REQUIRED SECTION: R 310.1 Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court. Where basements contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room, but shall not be required in adjoining areas of the basement. Where emergency escape and rescue openings are provided, they shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches (1,118mm) above the floor. Where a door opening having a threshold below the adjacent ground elevation serves as an emergency escape and rescue opening and is provided with a bulkhead enclosure, the bulkhead enclosure shall comply with SECTION R310.3. The net clear opening dimensions required by this section shall be obtained by the normal operation of the emergency escape and rescue opening from the inside. Emergency escape and rescue openings with a finished sill height below the adjacent ground elevation shall be provided with a window well, in accordance with SECTION R310.2.  
  • MINIMUM OPENING AREA: SECTION: R 310.1.1 All emergency escape and rescue openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5.7 square feet (0.530 m2). Exception: Grade floor openings shall have a minimum net clear opening of 5 square feet (0.465 m2).
  • MINIMUM OPENING HEIGHT: R 310.1.2 The minimum net clear opening height shall be 24 inches (610mm).
  • MINIMUM OPENING WIDTH: R 310.1.3 The minimum net clear opening width shall be 20 inches (508mm).
  • OPERATIONAL CONSTRAINTS: R 310.1.4 Emergency escape and rescue openings shall be operational from the inside of the room without the use of keys or tools or special knowledge.
    
    
• WINDOW WELLS: SECTION: R310.2 The minimum horizontal area of the window well shall be 9 square feet (0.9 m2), with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (914mm). The area of the window well shall allow the emergency escape and rescue opening to be fully opened. Exception: The ladder or steps required by SECTION R 310.2.1 shall be permitted to encroach a maximum of 6 inches (152mm) into the required dimensions of the window well. 
  
  
• LADDER AND STEPS: SECTION: R 310.2.1 Window wells with a vertical depth greater than 44 inches (1,118mm) shall be equipped with a permanently affixed ladder or steps usable with the window in the fully open position. Ladders or steps required by this section shall not be required to comply with SECTIONS R311.5 and R311.6. Ladders or rungs shall have an inside width of at least 12 inches (305 mm), shall project at least 3 inches (76mm) from the wall, and shall be spaced not more than 18 inches (457mm) on-center vertically for the full height of the window well.

• BULKHEAD ENCLOSURES: SECTION: R 310.3 Bulkhead enclosures shall provide direct access to the basement. The bulkhead enclosure with the door panels in the fully open position shall provide the minimum net clear opening required by SECTION R 310.1.1. Bulkhead enclosures shall also comply with SECTION R 311.5.8.2.

• BARS, GRILLS, COVERS, AND SCREENS: SECTION: R 310.3 Bars, grilles, covers, screens or similar devices are permitted to be placed over emergency escape and rescue openings, bulkhead enclosures, or window wells that serve such openings, provided the minimum net clear opening size complies with SECTIONS R 310.1.1 to R 310.1.3, and such devices shall be releasable or removable from the inside without the use of a key, tool, special knowledge, or force greater than that which is required for normal operation of the escape and rescue opening.

• EMERGENCY ESCAPE WINDOWS UNDER DECKS AND PORCHES: SECTION: R 310.5Emergency escape windows are allowed to be installed under decks and porches, provided the location of the deck allows the emergency escape window to be fully opened and provides a path not less than 36 inches (914 mm) in height to a yard or court.

In summary, non-conforming bedrooms are rooms that unlawfully serve as bedrooms, as the occupant would lack an easy escape in case of emergency. For more house tips http://www.homeinspectpros.com
 

John V. Olson                                                                                                                                              InterNACHI Certified Professional Home Inspector                                                                                  ‘Home Inspect Pros’ De Pere, WI.
May is deck safety month. Here is a list of items to check each year before using your deck, from the NADRA and InterNACHI. Safe decking.
Split or decaying wood: Check several different areas of the deck to be sure the wood is still sound. This includes the ledger board (where the deck attaches to the house and a common source of deck failure), support posts and joists under the deck (if you can reach them), deck boards, railings and stairs. Pay special attention to any areas that tend to remain damp, are regularly exposed to water, or are in contact with fasteners. Use a tool like an ice pick or a screwdriver to penetrate the wood surface.  If you can easily penetrate ¼ – ½ inch, break off a sliver of wood without splinters, or the wood is soft and spongy, decay may be present. This is also a good time to look for small holes in the wood, which may indicate insects.
Flashing: Flashing is a metal or plastic guard that directs water out and away from sensitive areas. It’s often installed where the deck and house come together, keeping moisture and debris from collecting between the house and the deck’s ledger board. Be certain the flashing is sound and firmly in place. Consider adding or replacing flashing if you notice areas that are obviously allowing water to collect.
Loose or corroded fasteners: Fasteners include nails, screws or anchors in the ledger board. Tighten any loose fasteners, and pound in any nails that have popped up. If a fastener appears rusted or corroded, consider replacing it. A corroded fastener can cause deterioration in surrounding wood. Approximately 90% of deck collapses occur as a result of the separation of the house and the deck ledger board, reports the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI). The ledger board is the piece of lumber that runs parallel to the edge of the house, attaching the deck to the house. Usually the first board installed, the ledger board supports one end of the deck joists and bears about one-half of the deck’s weight. The board must be the same material and size as the rest of the joists, and it is must be attached firmly – and with the correct fasteners – to avoid deck collapse.  Never attach a ledger board with nails. The weight of people and objects on a deck, coupled with movement, create vertical and horizontal forces. As the weight shifts during normal activity (imagine people on a deck during a party, or your children running across the space), the nails are pried away from the ledger bit by bit. Add in the fact that wood will contract and expand as temperatures and humidity levels change, and it’s easy to understand why the nails might pop out of the ledger board. For these reasons, deck tension hardware (structural screws, bolts, or tension ties) should always be used – and in accordance with local building codes and construction best practices.
Improper Joist hangers.Joist hangers are those metal brackets that attach the deck joists to the house and beams.  The manufacturers of joist hangers are very specific about how joist hangers should be installed; they specify exactly which nails should be installed, and exactly how much weight the joist hangers will support when installed properly.   Here are a few defects that I regularly find with joist hangers:

• Missing nails.  Nails are supposed to be installed in every hole.
• Improper joist hanger nails.  I find improper joist hanger nails on almost every deck.  If you can see a little “10” on the head of the nail, it’s probably the wrong nail.  Click the link above for more details on this defect.
• Screws used instead of nails.  Screws don’t have nearly the shear strength of nails, and they’re not an acceptable substitute.  
•  Altered joist hangers.  Joist hangers shouldn’t be bent or cut.

The deck or stairs should appear even without sagging and should not sway or move when tested.
Railings and banisters:  These should be secure. Push on them to be sure there is no give.  Also, check to be sure they are high enough (most codes require a 36” high railing and usually encourage 42” high railings) with rails no more than 4” inches apart (measured from the inside of the rails) to keep small children and pets from squeezing through. This is especially important the higher your deck is off the ground.
Stairs: Check any railings or handrails to be sure they are firmly held in place; check also the risers and stringers to be certain they are securely attached and not decayed. If the area behind the stair treads is open, this opening should be no more than 4” high. Also, always keep stair pathways clear of planters, décor, toys and other items that can present a tripping hazard.
 Cleaning and maintenance: Clean away any leaves and debris, since these can be slippery and promote mildew. If mildew is present or the deck coating has worn away, make time to clean and apply a new waterproofing coating. It can help prevent the split, decayed wood and loosened fasteners mentioned earlier.
 Grills, fire pits, chimneys, heaters and candles: These features can create a warm and cozy deck atmosphere, but make sure any source of fire or heat is safely placed away from flammable surfaces or that the deck surface is protected by a non-flammable pad. Always use caution and follow manufacturers’ directions.
Lighting and electrical: Be sure all lighting is working; clean any light covers to allow maximum light to shine through, and trim any plants or tree limbs that may be blocking light. If you don’t have adequate lighting, there are a lot of great new deck lighting products you could consider to illuminate your steps and pathways. Be sure all electrical outlets, appliances and features are up to code, in good condition, and childproof if children are present. Watch that any electrical cords do not present a tripping hazard.
Outdoor Furniture and Storage: Test all outdoor furniture to be sure it is sturdy. Avoid placing seating right at the edge of the deck. If you have a swing or hammock installed, test the chains and ropes to be sure they are secure. Consider installing childproof latches on any storage boxes and benches. Be sure to keep all deck related chemical products stored safely away from children, including BBQ lighter fluids, matches, cleaners, etc.
Surrounding trees: If you have trees overhanging your deck, make certain there is no danger of decaying limbs breaking free and falling from trees surrounding the deck.
See “Is your deck built like this” on my Home tips page at www.homeinspectpros.com